Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
